Villagers slouch into this Alice in Wonderland fantasia for muffins, coffee cake, a full coffee menu and multiple cigarettes. The bright red pressed tin ceiling is hung with chandeliers, and Chinese wallpaper and big black-and-white squared floors create a fanciful effect. Lunchers and late-night diners pick at sandwiches, goat cheese salads, and platters of fresh fruit and imported cheeses, matching them with a rotating list of seven wines by the glass.